This is a super easy project, but may be frustrating for those who like perfection.
There aren’t many steps, and they’re not very in depth so take your time and do your best!
What you’ll need:
An unfinished wood bangle
Some paint for a base color
Step 1: Paint your bangle’s base color
If no one around you supplies unfinished wood bangles you can get them on Amazon, Etsy or any number of online retailers.
Ok, so paint your bangle! I chose white. You’ll notice I use white a lot as a base color because it’s always best to work from lightest to darkest with your colors. It’s also great for making colors and designs pop. For this base color I used FolkArt multi-surface satin acrylic paint in color 2894, Wicker White.
Step 2: Prepare your rub-on design
While your base coat of color is drying (make sure it’s fully dry), make sure you have your design ready. I chose flowers so I cut them apart so I could apply them individually in the design I want.
Step 3: Apply your design
Keep in mind that your bangle, if it’s like mine, is curved. This means your design may not go on perfectly (this is the part that will bother those who strive for perfection). If you can manage to make your design go on perfectly that’s fantastic and by all means, do your very best! I on the other hand love the imperfection in mine (which I’m going to show you as we go).
Apply your design according to the instructions, but typically you’ll use a popsicle stick to rub the design from the plastic onto the wood. The plastic is generally pretty rigid which is where the imperfection comes in. You’ll notice in the photos above and in the photo below that there are breaks and missing pieces from my design. I’m okay with this, and didn’t try to fix it.
Step 4: Seal your work
When you’re finished applying your design, make sure you seal your work with an art sealant. You can use a Krylon clear glaze spray paint, an Americana acrylic spray sealer or something similar. Whatever you can find locally, that is clear and can be used on paint is just fine.
Apply the spray coating in a thin layer, allow it to dry before flipping it over and doing the other side. You want it to dry completely before touching it or you’ll wind up with fingerprints in your finished product, and it may stick to whatever surface you have it resting on.
My bangle isn’t quite finished yet as my clear coat seems to be missing and I need more but I will share the finished product with you when I have it fully completed.
But there you have it! Fun, super easy and doesn’t take a lot of time! I hope you like it. Thanks so much for looking for inspiration!
That’s my motto. The full description of my art existence. You’ll see me say it often, I’m sure.
This is a beginner level project, but it does require patience and an understanding of measurements and ratios.
In this post I’m going to go over how to make some easy coasters using some resin, inexpensive wood pieces I found at Michael’s, and some metal scraps I’ve been holding onto. <– That’s where the hoarding comes in. I had no need for these bits and I’ve had them for years… This is why I keep random stuff. I used metal bits, you can use anything you’ve been holding onto and had no idea why you kept it. Ribbon, tissue paper, glitter, grass, small gift tags….. get fancy!
Step 1: Lay out your materials.
Make sure you have everything you need so you’re not scrambling to find it later. This step is hugely important to me because I always forget something. If you find you need something you didn’t know you needed, well that’s just how it rolls and you should go with it. Try not to get frustrated and just grab said item and continue on.
Step 2: Adhere your design pieces to your blank.
Depending on the blanks you bought you may want to sand them first but this step may not be necessary. If it’s rough enough that your decorations won’t adhere smoothly or easily then sanding should be done first.
I like to use Mod Podge for this. it’s not super expensive, but it dries quickly. If you’re using what you have around the house, Elmer’s will work just fine. I’d avoid using any glue that has a 24+ hour drying time like Gorilla glue. I’d also avoid super glue.
Apply your glue in a thin layer, and lay your design down on top of it. If you’re doing a slower design, use a small paint brush and apply the glue bit by bit as you work your design. Remember, Mod Podge dries fast so if you apply it to the entire surface and you are working on a slower design, you’ll have to keep re-applying your glue. Allow the glue to dry before moving on
Step 3: Mix your resin.
Most epoxy resins use a 1:1 mixing ratio. This makes it super easy, because they also come with measuring cups! Depending on the size of your blank, and depth of your design, there is no set amount of resin that I can suggest so you’ll have to use your best judgment. You can always mix more. Resin gives you about 20+ minutes of working time after it’s mixed, so don’t rush.
Mix your resin according to the manufacturers instructions. Stir thoroughly to ensure the mixture will harden properly. Scrape the bottom and sides of your cup to make sure you’re mixing all of it. You’re going to end up with some bubbles in your resin. Ideally, you want as few bubbles as possible but some bubbles are bound to happen. Try to stir fairly slow and smooth to keep your bubbles to a minimum. We’ll deal with these bubbles after our pour.
Step 4: Pour your resin.
Pour your resin slowly and evenly over your design in a thin layer. Use a popsicle stick or something disposable to smooth the resin to the edges of your blank. Make sure all gaps in the design, and around the edges are filled. You don’t need to go down the sides of your blank, but you can if you choose to. I didn’t go down the sides.
Now that you’ve smoothed out your resin and it’s even and lovely, let’s tackle those bubbles! This is easy, just make sure there is no hair in your face. Lean close to your design and gently breathe on it. Yes… that’s it. Just gently exhale over your design and you’ll see your bubbles start to pop. You may not get all of them but that’s ok! Some people use a straw for this step but I prefer not to. It’s the heat that pops the bubbles, not the air flow. The breath is cooler if it travels through a straw first. Professionals may use a blow torch. If you’re not a pro, I recommend passing on the torch. If you want to give it a go, do it in your driveway, garage, somewhere with a fire proof floor and away from anything flammable. Be smart. Fire is dangerous. Don’t do it in your house if you don’t know exactly what you’re doing.
Step 5: Let it rest.
Resin requires about 12 to 24 hours to cure. Set your coaster aside and let it rest for at least 24 hours. I think a bunny hair floated into mine… but it’s just for me so I’m not really concerned.
After 24 hours, just gently touch the edge of your design. Does it feel sticky? I hope not! If you’ve mixed properly, you should have a solid piece now. If your mixing was slightly incorrect, you will end up with a non-cured, sticky piece. This isn’t good because it’s not usable in this state. If this is where you’re at, mix a new batch a bit more carefully and go through steps 3 and 4 again right over top of your last layer.
You can also add another layer of resin if you want a thicker visual, or to work a layered design!
If your design uses dried flowers or something with heavier texture, you may need to do multiple pours anyway to achieve a smooth surface.
I hope you enjoyed my simple coaster project and that something amazing comes out of it! Be creative in your design. tissue paper, dried flowers, glitter… give it all a go! You never know until you try.